Mentor Tips for Newly Adopted Dogs
Thank you for volunteering to be a mentor for our newly adopted dogs. The information below was put together to help assist with common situations that may come up with newly adopted dogs.
As a mentor, if there are any circumstances that seem extreme, please ask the adopter to reach out to their dog’s placement coordinator.
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Most of our dogs come with unknown histories. We can only guess and observe their behaviors as we try to understand what they need from us. Despite extensive searching for the answers, it often comes down to trial and error and lots of time, patience, and love. What works for one dog, may not work for another. Stay open to suggestions but also listen to your gut instincts. If something feels wrong, it probably is.
Although not a complete exhaustive list of all the issues a new adopter may encounter, here are a few of the more common concerns along with suggestions they may find helpful.
Dog Not Eating
· Did their dog just arrive? The dog may not eat for a day or two after transport. Reassure them that the dog will be okay, and make sure they provide lots of fresh water (distilled if possible).
· Have they changed to a new food? Most dogs from the south are fed Hill’s Science Diet Sensitive Stomach. Find out what the dog was fed before being adopted. If they are changing to a different food, they should make it a slow gradual transition to prevent stomach upset (DIARRHEA).
· Bowls: A dog may be frightened by the sound of tags clanging on a metal bowl, or even just the reflections on metal. Suggest they try a ceramic bowl.
· Try placing the food on the floor or on a mat on the floor. If they are using a puzzle bowl, to slow down the dog’s eating, the dog may not like the dividers. Again, they can try placing the food on the floor or on a mat on the floor.
· High value toppers, like canned food or some warm water mixed in with the kibble to make “gravy” may help.
Dog Eating Too Fast
· Slow down a rapid eater by placing a tennis ball in the kibble bowl, or by using a puzzle bowl.
Dog Begging At The Table
· Do not feed anything from the table. If the dog begs turn away and ignore the dog. If the dog jumps up, use the OFF command, not DOWN, which has a different meaning.
Dog Won’t Come Into the house/Walk Through Doorways/Use Stairs/Walk On Tile Floor
· Some rescue dogs have never been in a house and it can be scary for them. If there is another resident dog to teach the new dog, that’s often the easiest solution.
· If the dog won’t come in from outside and the yard is entirely fenced-in, try leaving the door open and letting the dog decide when it is ready to venture in. Treats may also help.
· Treats may provide an incentive for the dog to try stairs, walk through doorways, or to try walking on unfamiliar floor textures, like tile.
· Try remaining silent as the dog explores. Sometimes lots of verbal coaxing is just more noise in the dog’s head. Reward small steps forward with treats and praise.
Dog Won’t Come/Respond To Name
· The name may still be new to the dog, or perhaps it wasn’t used often or taught.
· Try calling the dog’s name while offering a high reward treat - then letting the dog return to playing, sniffing or whatever it was doing. If calling the dog always means playtime is over, it makes it more difficult to train the dog to respond.
· Try to find what motivates the dog. Some dogs are food driven, while others may have 1 toy that they want and love above all else. The challenge is to figure out what that special thing is for the dog. Once found, don’t give the dog free access, so it can be used for training.
Dog Won’t Go Outside/Come Inside
· If the yard is fenced in and there is no risk of escape, go outside with small pieces of high value treats and toss them into the grass. The dog will likely follow.
· If the dog seems fearful, they should toss the treats away from themselves. Do not force a fearful dog to come until it is ready. Avoid giving a treat and then immediately ending what the dog was enjoying. Repeat the treats a few times before terminating an activity.
· Short tries are better than lengthy sessions.
Dog Won’t Walk On A Leash
· The dog may not have much experience walking on a leash, or was never properly trained.
· A fearful dog may need to start with attaching the leash, getting a treat, removing the leash, getting a treat - repeat.
· Try leaving the leash on for the dog to drag in the house or back yard (provided the dog is not unattended) so it becomes familiar.
· Try picking up the leash and starting to walk without looking back. Looking back will make the dog stop. (Be careful not to drag the dog!)
· If they have another dog, they can try walking them together. The new dog will learn quickly from the other dog.
Dog Trys To Run Away
· All RESCUE DOGS ARE FLIGHT RISKS!
· Be very cautious when opening exterior doors! A baby gate at frequently used doors may be helpful if the dog is intent on escaping. Note - Many dogs can jump gates.
· SGRR requires the use of slip leads at transport and during walks. One would have been provided in the dog’s adoption packet. They should remember that their rescued dog may not yet be familiar with or fond of a leash. Information about slip leads can be found on the SGRR website. http://www.sunshinegoldenrescue.com/slip-leads-required.html
· Remind the adopters of the importance of keeping their dog leashed whenever the dog is not in a fenced in area.
· There are two harnesses that SGRR recommends - but the slip lead should be used in conjunction with the harness, at least for a few months.
2 Hounds Design called Freedom No-pull harness
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085XOVLS/ref=twister_B07G2S32Z8?_encoding=UTF8 &psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S2XZRW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
· Martingale collars, with quick release buckles, are also a good choice. The adopter should not use just a standard buckle style collar which a dog can easily slip out of.
· They should place an air tag on the dog’s collar. It won’t bring the dog back, but it will give them a place to start looking.
· Never chase an escaped dog. Remain calm and quiet. Sit down and toss treats away from you, eventually tossing them closer.
· When they have the dog’s attention, try showing treats, making excited gestures, and running away from the dog (never run towards). Hopefully, the dog will think it’s a game and follow.
· Never leave the dog outside unattended. Even dogs that don’t want to run away, may have strong hunting instincts, and forget all else when chasing a squirrel, rabbit, or other interesting creature.
Dog Cries/Barks At Night
· Crate training may be helpful, and is recommended for most dogs. However, dogs that have never been crated may need a gradual introduction to a crate. Also, some may have had a bad experience in a crate, so it may not be the best option for that dog. The dog may have been left crated and not let out. Breeder dogs probably lived in a crate or cage their whole lives and had to eat there and eliminate there too. They will be fearful of crates and small enclosed spaces. The adopter should watch their dog’s reaction to crating. If their dog cowers and drools when placed in the crate, they have had a bad experience and should not be crated.
· To try crating, start with the crate in the kitchen and establish a bedtime routine. Put the dog in the crate, give a few treats, cover the crate, lights out, and “good night”.
· If the kitchen location is not working, try moving the crate to the bedroom, with the same bedtime routine. If the dog whines or barks during the night (and they are sure the dog isn’t sick or needing to go out) they should reassure the dog and say goodnight. Some dogs may initially need a hand on them for reassurance.
Dog Afraid Of Men/Man Wearing Hat/Heavy Boots, etc.
· We don’t know the dog’s history. Try giving the dog time to relax, observe and feel safe. If it is a particular man or person, try having the scary person seated and then offering pets/treats. Later, they can have the scary person toss treats away from him/herself. Also try having that person be the one to consistently feed the dog. Never force a fearful dog into a situation it is clearly not ok with. Forced exposure will NOT help the dog feel safe or comfortable.
Dog Is Fearful – How To Approach?
· Approach very slowly, using a quite gentle voice.
· DO NOT approach head on. Approach from the side.
· DO NOT make eye contact. Never look a fearful dog in the eye or come in for a kiss or hug.
· Make yourself small. Get down to the dog’s level. Angle the shoulder closest to the dog down. Look away from the dog. Let the dog come to you.
· Approach with a flat hand, palm up. Do not pet on top of the head or face until the dog trusts you. Thumping pats on the head are NOT comforting.
· Toss treats away from you, then closer as the dog becomes more comfortable.
Dog Will/Won’t Jump On Furniture/Bed
· The dog may not have been allowed or encouraged to get on the couch or on a bed. Try coaxing the dog up with a treat to show it is allowed.
· To keep the dog off furniture set house rules. Be aware some dogs are more tenacious than others. Try making certain areas unavailable. Bed risers, to elevate the bed, make it a little more difficult for a dog to jump up.
· The dog may be fearful of their new unfamiliar dog bed. Leave it available and try placing toys/treats on the dog’s bed - but don’t push. Another dog demonstrating that the dog bed is “OK” may help. Some dogs need lots of time to adjust.
Dog Looks Sick/Not Right
· Dogs are vetted prior to adoption, but some things are not always immediately apparent. If after discussing the dog’s symptoms/behavior/condition they are still concerned, they should take the dog to their vet.